Fabrizio Zangrilli: AAO Ambassador reviews Marmot!

I have a pretty good first 10 days of being back in Colorado, managing to get out 6 days, mostly for ice/mixed climbing but also a short day of sunny rock. I am hoping to spend a few days out in RMNP between now and the beginning of next week so will be even happier. Still only $88.00 to my name but happy. Here are some initial thoughts on some of the product I received. Thanks so much! If you have more product for me to test please let me know. I hope that you find the brief reports below helpful, if you have specific areas of interest in the product please let me know.

Genesis Jacket:
The first thing I would like to say is where are the Genesis Pants? I am loving the Genesis Jacket. I have spent a total of 6 hours scratching my way up a steep right facing corner trying my best to get marginal gear into a M7 R mixed pitch (read scared - almost to the point of requiring the Genesis Diaper) and have no sign of wear on the jacket. The temps have ranged from 20 - 38 degrees and have just had to add one layer of insulation under it. I climbed in Vail on the Rigid Designator in a virtual shower as the temps were warm last week and stayed totally dry on my upper half, my legs being soaked to the bone through my scree pants. I was so impressed with how water proof it was. The other amazing thing about the jacket is the stretch, it really is dynamic. At first you think the stretch feature of the material is a gimmick - well I did, but it really is noticeable. It makes a big difference over a non dynamic product. Please make the Genesis Pant. It will solve alot of dressing dilemmas for me! So far the jacket has seen an approximate 50hours total amount of use time with walk ins, ice, mixed and rock climbing. I will let you know when some sign of wear and tear occurs.

My one point of critique is the narrowness of the shoulders, I am a bit constricted in it, but could just be my burly shoulders, well, after I get some perhaps.

Alpinist glove:
I really like the concept of the glove, the primaloft/softshell combo is great. I really like the palm material and the overall dexterity of the glove ( for me the ring finger and pinkie finger lengths are a bit long ). I have included a photo of where rappelling effects my gloves normally and would love to see the "protective layer of fabric on the palm extend over these areas more, if possible. I am not a fan of the liner glove, it feels too thick in the glove, I would prefer a more traditional "fleece" liner, I think it can be a bit thinner and more dexterous. I would be interested to hear what others think about this. I am very, very happy you have put a loop to clip the glove to a harness upside down on the finger, so snow does not get into the glove, love it! I might be having fit issues because I am right in between a medium and a large (perhaps more to a medium) so will find a fleece liner that fits better and get back to you. But I really think the photo showing where I normally burn through gloves while rappelling will help with the protective fabric placement. Great glove so far!

Greenland Jacket:
Amazing super cold weather jacket! Great weight to warmth ratio, awesome fleece lined pockets, amazing hood, great draft sleeve over the zipper, nice look with the "secret" chest pocket. I took the jacket out to Vail to belay a beginner on some mixed climbing - read alot of standing around in the cold, and was so happy to be in the jacket. I think this will be my defacto choice for 6000-7000m peaks and certainly for Denali this would be the jacket I recommend for clients and others for most of the routes! The jacket is a bit bulky (and perhaps delicate) for winter climbs in RMNP or like Birdbrain (Ouray) where I will be in two weeks - where the Ellsworth Jacket would be perfect) to wear while belaying and then following pitches in spindrift.

Spring Glove:
I have done most of my pitches this past ten days in these gloves, they are awesome, again I am having a bit of a fit issue, perhaps being closer to the medium than large, but find them to be perfect one pitch ice climbing gloves for guiding. When the weather warms they are gonna get worn out fast as they will be my top choice for sure.

Amphibian Glove:
These have been my babies. The large fits me perfectly and I love them. I have worn them on all attempts at the Dangler (M7-, trad) and my training laps on Amphibian (Vail, benchmark M9) and other mixed climbs. The only thing I can say about these gloves is to run the padding the length of the finger and you have the best mixed glove on the market - trust me I have used every mixed glove on the market, from designer outdoor brands to plumbing gloves. Love these gloves, please don't plan on seeing them in good condition anytime soon.